Progress, Progress, Progress!!
I had actually finished making the mock up for this cosplay at the time of posting my fabric haul for it but decided that I had so little content for it (and I ended up changing the final patterns anyway) that it wasn’t worth including in that post or making a solo post for it either.
The mock up
I decided it would be best to make the main coat up of four patterns in total. Front (2) and back (2).
I started off by flat pattern drafting my pattern. This was my first time using the technique and actually went pretty well!
I’ve been using all of the packing paper from when we moved as patterning paper, it’s really durable and something to hold onto
I then cut these patterns out of my mock up fabric which was an old sheet.
Once they were cut out I threw them under my nifty new sewing machine connecting all the seams. I marked were to stop, as these were the slits in her coat.
I doesn’t look like much nut the silhouette was pretty similar and that made me really happy! From the mock up at this point I realized that I needed to make the back seam larger as it pulled ever so slightly across my shoulders.
Next I moved onto patterning the sleeve, which I professionally stole from a sweater I had on my wardrobe.
I then made it a little larger around the arm opening and sewed it onto the coat.
The cuff needed to be rolled up as it was far too long, I later shortened it and added a cuff to the end.
A few days after completing the mock up mum and I went to Exeter and bought fabrics (seen in my previous post).
The I begin the real cosplay, I added (really I took off) some more shape to the patterns by slanting them off at an angle. Which emphasized the slits in her coat. I also drew on the coloured details onto these base patterns.
Then using cooking paper I traced these details and numbered them, making a list of what pattern went where, size and color.
Cooking paper works great for tracing as its semi transparent and firmer than standard printing paper meaning it won’t tear and also doesn’t ‘bleed’ when markers are used on it.
I then cut these numbered patterns out (using a rotary cutting tool, which was so easy!), the patterns were then pinned onto fabric and cut out. Then I had to use those patterns once again to cut out heat n bond interfacing which took forever.
Once this was done (and it took hours) I was able to begin ironing on the pattern pieces.
Starting with the front pieces.
Then the back! I decided to pin them in place (as seen in the pictures) because I didn’t want the patterns to shift places and they were placed according to my drawn out patterns and measured to fit.
When everything was ironed on I pined everything together and tried it on.
I then unpinned everything and began satin stitching the edges of the coat details.
This took hours.
But I think it looks fantastic and I’m really happy I took the time to do it!
I ran out of blue thread half way through the third panel I was doing but was lucky enough to find it stocked at a small craft store in my town. It saved my life.
I then sewed the front and back pieces together and the shoulder seams.
This meant it was time for the sleeves!
I returned to my botched sleeve pattern and ended up taking about an inch and a half off which would later be made up with a sleeve cuff.
I cut out the fabric for both sleeves and the sleeve cuffs. I seed the sleeve seam and then used a gathering stitch on the end of the sleeve which I gathered down to the size of the cuff. The cuff was then sewn to form a loop.
I then seed the cuff into the sleeve and it was ready to be sewn onto the coat.
The first one went on perfectly but as I was working late that night (1am) I sewed the second on on inside out, I decided it was bedtime at that point! And sewed it on the next morning.
Then came the collar which was also pretty botched.
It worked! But I’ve now decided I want to make it more accurate which will only take an hour or two but I want to move on from the coat at this point.
And that’s the coat finished!
Next I’ll be making her shirt (or is it a jacket?) which I’ve almost finished patterning.
Thank you for reading