Petticoat Construction, Let’s make Simplicity 9764

This pattern was defiantly the easiest of the three patterns I choose to use when making foundation garments. This is the second pattern from Simplicity 9764 the other pattern being the crinoline I made earlier.
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Materials you’ll need.

All of this is stated on the packet but here’s a quick run down.

  • 4m of a medium weight fabric (I used cotton sateen)
  • 3m of a light weight netting
  • Hooks and eyes
  • Top stitching thread in contrasting colour is you choose to gather by hand
  • General notions (thread, scissors etc)

The pattern is really simple to follow and just consists of the petticoat panels and the waistband. Once all the patterns are cut out sew all of the petticoat skirt panels together.
I stupidly didn’t take any photos of this process but its pretty standard and the patterns explains it all well.
Next is to gather the top edge of the petticoat. I decided to hand gather the top edge because of the difficulty I had doing it by machine on my crinoline.
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After sewing two lines of hand stitching I gathered it down to my waistband size.
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And then the waistband was pinned in place.
ZPHJbnF-.jpg-largeThe petticoat fit really well and looked like this with the waistband sewn on.
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I then put it onto the dress form over my crinoline so I could measure the drop the netting would have. The mistake I made here was that I didn’t measure it while I was wearing it, although my dress form is set to the same hight as I am the crinoline sits just that little bit higher on me.
wdpsj5k6.jpg-largeAt the time I worked out that the drop would be 9 inches including seam allowance. I marked everything out with a fabric pen and then I cut cut my netting on the fold in 9 inch widths three times which equaled 18m of netting in total.

I then sewed the ends together creating one long pain in the ass. I had to hem this… It took a long time even with my foot down all the time.

Then it had to be gathered down to 4m. Which again meant hand gathering because I hate myself. Thank god for Netflix. Once it was all gathered down I pinned it to the bottom edge and sewed it on.
Finish by sewing a pair of hooks and eyes onto the waistband and down the opening (optional) and you’re done!
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It took me another month to get around to actually ironing out the whole petticoat and I’m so glad I did. It looks amazing.
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It was so nice to finish off these undergarments with something easy. I do wish I had made the drop and inch or two longer I don’t think it will make a huge difference when the ballgown is on it. The main thing is its covering the hoops and I won’t have that dreadful ringed look like I did on my 1500’s project. One thing to note is that all together its beginning to weigh up, its not something that bothers its just there. I don’t see myself getting tired wearing it for long periods of time but it certainly has a weight to it now than previously with just the crinoline. The skirt of the ballgown will add to this but overall I don’t think it will be a big issue. I love this petticoat I’ve spent too much time twirling in it, its so fun to wear.

I’ll be talking more about future projects in my next post as well as University which has come around so fast!

As always thank you for reading.
-Nivera

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Corset Construction, Let’s make Simplicity 1139

I honestly didn’t have high hopes for this, corsetry seamed so intimidating. Although I own Norah Waugh’s ‘Corsets and Crinolines’ I decided it would be easier for me to use a bought pattern rather than attempting to scale and size one myself for my first time. I decided on Simplicity 1139 which, like the crinoline pattern is apart of the ‘Fashion Historian’ collection. The corset and the other patterns from this particular pack are heavily influenced from the Civil War Era making them the perfect for my 1860’s ballgown.
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Materials you’ll need.

All of this is stated on the packet but here’s a quick run down.

  • 1 meter of coutil fabric (I used This Herringbone coutil )
  • One 12″ (30cm) corset busk (White Busk)
  • Metal grommet punching kit // ALTERNATIVELY One heavy duty fabric punch
  • White Top Stitching Thread (embroidery floss works too)
  • 3.5 meters of white cotton pipping (This is just what I used to lace the corset up there are plenty of other options)
  • One straw needle (I refuse to sew eyelets with any other needle)
  • 6 meters of white twill tape.
  • 6 meters of 0.5cm plastic covered steel boning
  • bolt/wire cutters
  • Disappearing ink pen
  • General notions (thread, fabric scissors etc…)

The corset is made up of seven patterns, six are cut on double folded fabric and one pattern (the busk cover) was cut four times.

This being my first corset I actually expected there to be more pattern pieces. In my mind when I looked at a corset I imagined for each boning channel there would be a seam but I quickly realised I was wrong and that boning channels were sewn onto the corset panels as well as over the seemliness.
NnjnLXa6.jpg-largeOnce the pattern pieces are cut out transfer the boning channel lines over to the fabric using your fabric pen. Making sure not to mistake these lines for the grain line as some are diagonal and don’t follow the grain. I made the mistake of sewing my panels together before realising the boning channels needed to be drawn but this was an easy fix using the paper patterns as a guid and drawing them in that way.

You can see the boning channel lines marked in pink in the above images. Making sure to iron the seams out flat as your sew them, it’s really important for this project.
BUT REMEMBER fabric pen ink disappears under heat so it will disappear if you iron over those channels you’ve just drawn. Be careful! I almost made this mistake again but remembered the issue from my crinoline experience.

Next get your twill tape and pin it over the seams on the RIGHT side of the fabric. Cutting it into correct lengths as you go. You’re then going to sew on either side of the twill tape as close to the edge as you can get. This will form the boning channels. Be sure not to sew the top or bottom ends up as this will be done later.
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Then repeat the process and pin the twill tape centred over the the boning channel indicators you’ve just drawn. If you were like me and used a bright colours pen you should be abled to see the lines vaguely through the twill tape making it easier to pin centred.
Technically you can pin the seams and the channel indicators at the same time and sew the all at once but I found doing them in sets was easier to manage!
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Once all the twill tape is sewn it will look like this! Now this is where you have an option and I strayed from the pattern, kinda. You have the choice of using a metal grommet punch and putting metal grommets into your corset for eyelets. However if you’re going for historical accuracy and making a costume that predates the 1820’s then I suggest you read Why metal grommets are the visible panty lines of historical costuming

I personally prefer the look of hand sewn eyelets, when using a colour matched thread they blend into a costume seamlessly unlike metal grommets which stand out and will catch any light source. I just think metal grommets look tacky. Sewing OVER metal grommets to give them the look of hand sewn eyelets, I don’t have problem with.

Mark the eyelet/grommet placements out with your fabric pen, you should have 30 of them if you’ve measured according to the pattern instructions.

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Then begin punching in grommets or sewing your eyelets. Make sure to do the eyelets one at a time or they can stretch. You can use fray check on them before sewing but I didn’t find it necessary this time round.

Continue and repeat 30 times.
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I found that I could do one every 10-15 minutes without distractions.
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They are very pleasing to look at once you’ve finished them though! Next up is inserting the busk. This was my first time using a busk and I find them so cool!
VTcqJe1b.jpg-largeThe instructions will tell you to mark the top of each side (stud and loop), you do this by getting some tape putting on each end and marking the letter ‘T’. Simple!
c3364368725d966935823b901b64349c7fefbd1b_hqStarting with the loop side mark out where the loops will sit within the seam allowance. Use your fabric pen for this. You’re better to measure everything for this. It has to be exact on either side of the busk or it will not connect and create a closure.
a9636cef9112d3d20055df091d1d16279aac0f96_hqAfter sewing the patterns together you should be able to slot the loop busk into the seam allowance and the loops will poke through the holes you created. It can then be sewn onto the base corset like so!
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The some idea applies to the stud side. Just this time your marking where the studs will poke though the fabric. The instructions suggest you use and awl to open these holes but I used my fabric punch and just matched the hole side to one size smaller than the stud so it could be pushed through the hole but not pop out again. Make sure to fray check these punched holes.
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Repeat the process of sewing it together and then onto the base corset. Last but not least. Sew along the bottom edge within your seam allowance and trim any excess fabric. Then pin and sew bias tape along the bottom edge. There were a few places the needle didn’t quite catch the tape on the other side (wrong side) and I just fixed these up with needle and thread being carful not to show stitches on the right side. The only reason I didn’t unpick it and re sew it on again was because I didn’t want to damage my fabric too much and the bias tape looked great from the front the first time round!
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Then cut your boning to size and insert it into the channels. I found the putting heavy duty duct tape on the ends unfortunately showed through the twill tape and left weird dark patches on the channels so I didn’t do that this time and so far so good, no boning has torn through the casing.
Repeat what you did with the bias time on the top of the corset and you’re finished!
Lace yourself up or get a friend to help cinch you in and your corset is good to go!

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The corset if I’m honest is too big for me. It docent cinch my waist in at all, the bust area is too large and theres no room for me to cinch it in smaller as the eyelets meet centrally down the centre (not shown in the above picture but I have since achieved that). I fear attempting to pull the corset tighter would ruin it. I’m disappointed it doesn’t cinch me in further at best it just flattens my stomach.  It looks as though I won’t be doing a shoo for this costume until next Spring so I may make a new one in that time and possibly sell this one as its of no great use to me.
My next corset will be smaller and likely patterned from the book ‘Corsets and Crinolines’ Unless I can find my other corset book which I know covers this period exclusively.
Despite the size issue I’m still really proud of how this turned out.  I’ve had many complements on my social media on it which is always great to hear! I think it also shows how much my skill has improved over the last year too.


This corset along with my crinoline and a petticoat (post coming along soon) will be worn under an 1860’s ballgown ensemble. Unfortunately my sewing machine needs servicing and I won’t be able to make any further progress on it until the Christmas holidays. But hopefully my mother will come and visit me during term and will bring along my serviced machine so I can continue to work on things in my dorm while at Uni! I will have a fabric selection and embellishment choice post coming along soon too so thats one update on the dress at least.

I’m really enjoying the Fashion Historian pattern line and I’d love to make some more things from it. Perhaps a pair of drawers to be worn with the rest of the undergarments.

 

Thank you for reading!

-Nivera

Crinoline Construction, Let’s make Simplicity 9764

I’ve been planing to start on this costume for how long now? I’m hoping to make and shoot a 1860’s ballgown all before university starts, is it ambitious? Yes but I’ve made a start!

The pattern we’re using is Simplicity 9764 which is apart of the fashion historian collection. It’s an eleven hoop crinoline making it perfect for historical dress and cosplay!
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I believe this pattern is currently out of print (no worries as it’s frequently rebranded and sold under new names) so the best place to get one is online. Places like EBay and Amazon are great places to look. I got mine on EBay for £15, unopened. I highly suggest you try and find unopened ones as you can never fully trust how well others look after their used patterns!

Materials you’ll need.

All of this is stated on the packet but here’s a quick run down.

•4m of a medium/heavy weight material. I used bleached Calico.

•24 of twill tape. This is what will be used to create the boning channels.

•27m of 12mm wide plastic covered steel boning. (I used 10mm because I couldn’t find 12mm where the shipping wasn’t insane, it makes no difference)

•Hooks and Eyes.

•Disappearing ink pen (Also know as friction/fabric pens)

•Thread (lots of it!)

•Fabric scissors

•Top stitching thread in contrasting colour

•Top stitching thread in white

•Tape measure

•Heavy duty Duct Tape

•Wire cutters

And of course a trusty sewing machine.The crinoline is made up of five pattern pieces. The waistband and the skirt panels.
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The pattern pieces are quite large so give yourself some room and cut them out.
0ff26e1f2a60f60028a0f6f578a16dbe3bc7ebc2_hqI like to iron my pattern after cutting them out, this makes sure they’re flat with no creases.
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Then pin your patterns to the fabric and cut them out!

MAKE SURE YOU TRANSFER THE BONING CHANNEL LINES OVER TO YOUR FABRIC BEFORE CUTTING!!!
I cut my fabric out before transferring the lines over and it was a pain to re-pin them and then trace the lines out. Make sure to use your disappearing ink pen for this!

Also check out my sweet purple fabric scissors. My last pair of scissors died cutting adhesive velcro, RIP.
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373a3534e462f8bdec6340935415230f569c8b4a_hqOnce all of the pieces are cut out sew them together making sure to take notice of the seam that’s finished with a narrow hem.
It makes a hella nice cloak when all the seams are sewn.
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Back to the narrow hem! This my first time sewing one and although the sewing pattern does explain how to sew one it confused me. I decided to look up a tutorial and found This Tutorialwhich is super helpful and simplifies it down with lots of pictures!

They’re pretty simple, once you know what you’re doing!
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This will become the opening for the crinoline.
Next up is the waistband and gathering the top edge. Straight away I’m going to say cut the waistband pattern from the petticoat (apart of the same pattern pack) and double the fabric. The waistband intended for the crinoline is tiny and and just a genuine pain in the ass. I tried following the pattern using the original waistband and it was too small, came apart and didn’t even look like a waistband. I just didn’t work for me, I probably did something wrong but I found the petticoat pattern to be a great alternative.
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///Note: I changed the waistbands over after completing the crinoline///

The next step is to gather the skirt up. Now the instructions say to use a long machine stitch with a heavy thread.
Basically two lines of basting stitches using top stitching thread. Make sure to use a contrasting coloured thread.
Now when I did this and stated gathering it all up and the top stitching thread snapped. And I’d used both a bobbin and a spool of top stitching thread so it should have been secure as hell. I brushed it off and thought it just twisted it accidentally which made the thread more brittle. So I sewed the lines of stitching again and it snapped again…
So I decided it would be easier and more reliable to hand sew the gathers myself. This surprisingly wasn’t as time consuming as I thought it would be!
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Once all of the gathering is in place and it’s gathered to your waist band size. Sew the waist band on!
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The bottom edge is hemmed and this creates the bottom two boning channels.
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The others are created with the twill tape.
This is the time consuming part! Yay!
On the WRONG side starting from the back seam pin the twill tape centred over the lines you drew to indicate the boning channel all the way round the crinoline leaving at least an inch over lap when you get back to where you started. Make sure to leave a three inch opening so you can insert the boning later!

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I highly recommend doing one at a time it’s a lot easier to manage and if you’re like me you won’t have enough (good🙃straight🙃long) pins to do more than one at a time!
Once the twill tape is pinned in place sew it on either side of the tape as close to the edge as possible.
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Then repeat that nine times and try not to lose your mind.
But if you do, that’s okay.
We have a weekly sessions you can attended. This week we have a box of kittens to cheer everyone up after we talk about our feelings.

It took me around 11 hours to sew the boning channels in (with breaks).
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It looks so pretty and drapy ahhh. The next day I started on inserting the boning into the channels. I got my boning from Sew Curvy Sew Curvy is run by a really lovely team and I recommend buying from them!

Onto the hoops!4c9a8d4ad469e644d464316b74fec1f6ac64f3fa_hqYou’ll need your wire cutters now!
Steel boning is pretty sharp even with the plastic covering. The sharp edges are sharp enough to pierce the twill tape and your base fabric so it’s best to cover them up! This also makes inserting it a lot easier as it won’t snag on anything. You can get caps to put on the end of boning but heavy duty duct tape works just as well!

The instructions does have a chart to indicate how long each hoop should be,
f30b8b2ff35be17aa8591dc3f2099e2bb29d931b_hqBut I wanted quite a full crinoline so I just inserted the bonging while still on the roll and cut it to size once it made the full circle. Do what ever you feel most comfortable with🤷🏼‍♀

Before inserting the boning I covered the end with the duct tape. I’d cut of a section wider then the boning and tape half of it to the boning.
fed228b3dd8d98f425c2e3224a4c451c168d9a37_hqThen fold it over and press the sides where the tape meets. And then cut the excess off the sides. And it’s ready to be inserted into a channel!

It’s pretty simple to guide the boning around the channel just be carful where any seams are. When the end meets itself again leave about an inch of overlap. Then tape the end you just cut and bind the two ends together using the tape. You should have some overlapping twill tape as well so pin that over the hole you left for the boning and hand sew in place.
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Repeat this eleven times!
Once you’re finished inserting the boning and sewing the channels closed there are just a few things left to do.

You’ll need to sew sets of hook and eyes down the opening and to the waistband to create the closure.
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And three laces needed to be sewn on the inside to each of the top three hoops. This will pull the front of the crinoline towards you more and push the back outwards for the 1860’s silhouette. This is of course optional if that’s not the look you’re going for!

Here’s a picture from the instructions to explain the process better!
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And with that you’re done! You have your very own eleven hoop crinoline perfect for any princess occasion!!

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I’m making the petticoat and corset to go along with the crinoline so look out for future posts on those patterns!

This was a lot of fun to make and was very different from the regular store bought patterns I usually follow. I’m super happy with the outcome of this and I’m so excited to get a dress over it. I’ve just got this costume and my Nightingale Armour to make before I leave for University I really don’t want to be stressing myself too much before then because I’m sure I have a lot to make when course starts. I think my worst nightmare at this point will be my dress form not fitting in my room!

Thank you for reading,
-Nivera

Ana (Overwatch) Work-log 3 FINAL

Hi everyone! I’m back with the final construction post for my Ana Amari cosplay from Overwatch!! If you follow me on social media or read my last post you’ll know I finished this cosplay over three weeks ago but I’m only getting round to completing my work logs now.. Whoops!


I started on the Biotic grenades, at first I wasn’t sure how I’d make the the middle sphere but remember we had a bunch of old Christmas decoration left over in a box to be binned and after rummaging through there I found two baubles which were the perfect size. They had some sort of silk covering on them but this was super easy to remove with the help of my craft knife.

Next I made four tubes which were capped at the top. This was my first time using contact cement and I was still getting used to waiting for it to ‘dry’ before adhering it to its self. This made things difficult as I kept trying to adhere the glue to itself while it was still wet, failing miserably. I did get there in the end!
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They looked a little something like this when done!
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Next I started on Ana’s shoes
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WHAT ARE THOSE ?!?!
I decided to simplify the design down a bit because at this point I had a week to make this costume and time was running out!
I bought a pair of skuffs from Primark for £3.
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Which I painted black all over, not including the soles.
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I then painted the sides of them brown.cFtLw4gA.jpg-large
I then patterned the top grey piece and glued that on with contact cement and my feet were good to to! The shoe pattern was really simple and curved over the band perfectly, the inner curves of the dremeled inwards to give a slanted look to them. You can see that in the following pictures.
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The below pic was taken after con so they look a little battle worn..!
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Next was Ana’s knee pads. When I first looked at these I thought I was going to mess them up so bad.
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I started by wrapping my knee in plastic wrap and duct tape and drawing the design/shape on. I cut this out and made a few adjustments like evening things out and making things smoother. As I had only patterned half the kneee pad I put the plastic wrap/tape pattern on a piece of paper folded and cut the pattern out.

I tested it as a mock up and the size and shape was great so I went ahead and cut it from 5mm foam and dremeled the tops of each piece at and angle. I then glued the two pieces together cut some smaller detail pieces out from 2mm foam and glued those on and it was done! After painting of course.

I really love how these came out! They look very accurate when worn and the shape and size is just perfect!

The shoulder armour was a pain to make, I tried to make them twice before I was successful on the third time.
The first time I was using a yoga mat as a base, this was before I switched over to the dense foam from CosplayShop. The yoga mat was just too thin and was damaged easily because there was nothing to it. I literally found I couldn’t firmly hold it or my fingerprints would imprint on the foam…
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They looked terrible!!! But to be fair my pattern wasn’t the best.
The second Attempt was made from CosplayShop foam with a slightly altered previous pattern. I mostly made them larger but kept the split (fold) the same.
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I did end up painting them but I just hated them, they were too big and the shape was all wrong again. These got binned and I started on my third and final attempt.

I don’t have progress photos of the third build I think at this point I had three days before con so it was rushed! I have included a photo of what the foam shapes look like as it can be a little difficult to see with paint covering seams.
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I made a stencil to help with painting the Overwatch logo on by printing out a picture scaled to size. I then cut the interior of the OW log out, pinned it to the foam in the position I wanted it and used a paint pen to trace the design onto the foam. From there I painted it a light grey.
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I used industrial velcro on the underside of the shoulder piece just at the top and then along the top seam line connecting the sleeve to the coat.

The Nano Boost was pretty simple to make.
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I decided the easiest way to build it would be starting with the vial and the building up around it. The ‘vial’ is another broom handle the same featured in my Biotic Rifle construction log from B&Q.
Again this was a week before con crunch going on so I only have worn photos and a finished photo.
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Nothing was dremeled for this prop just glued directly onto the broom handle. I did shape the black pieces to be curved before gluing them on but I ended up gluing elastic to each end which curved them anyway. the darker blue piece was clipped to curve the way it does which you can totally see! No gap filler at all… And the silver piece was slapped on top of that. What about the needle I hear you asking? That was made with the end of a paint brush

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It was hot glued into place, contact cement didn’t like it for some reason. Its not in the above picture because it slowly became extremely loose during the con (ITS ACTUALLY SO IMPRACTICAL THOUGH, I HAD TO BE SUPER CARFUL MOVING MY HAND NOT TO KNOCK IT). It did stay on all day, I honestly expected it to come off without me realising and I’d loose it but that didn’t happen. I ended up taking it off on the tube home for safe keeping.
It looked good in photos though!
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That was my first official full test I was so happy!

The shoulder bag was really simple too!
I drew up a simple rectangular box pattern Similar to this one! I didn’t use the tabs instead going for pinched seams. Tabs are for wussies.
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I cut the pattern out of my dark brown cotton fabric and pinch seam sewed it together with whip stitches. I found immediately that it wouldn’t hold its shape and collapsed. Using the template again I cut interfacing for it and send it together using the same technique. I then sewed this into the bag with whip stitches and it finally held its own shape. The interfacing it used was quite think and more on the ‘heavy’ scale of interfacing but if I did it again I’d use curtain interfacing, its like the industrial velcro of interfacing. Amazing.

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I then sewed two tabs onto the lip of the bag these snapped down with domed creating a closure. But I was going to be keeping my phone and money in here so for extra security measures I sewed some velcro onto the inside of the lip as well. But I only had the adhesive kind of velcro left over so THAT was a pain in the ass to sew by hand. (I hand sewed it because it wasn’t adhering that well to the cotton) I know you not suppose to sew adhesive velcro but damn the glue they use it thick. If you are in this position and have to use that velcro make sure the needle your using isn’t a nice one. because I had to throw mine out it was covered in that much gunk…

The strap for the bag was also super easy to make and you’ll notice the Biotic grenades attach onto it as well, seamlessly.
Time of poor MS Paint drawings!
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I feel like I have to make a key for this one its not one of my regular masterpieces. The blue lines at the end mean thats where one end is sewn to another so thats the bag being sewn to the other end of the strap which creates a loop to go over you body and will hold in place. For the main strap (light brown) I cut two pieces of fabric out in that shape, I then sewed these pieces together along the top and bottom leaving the ends open. This was so I could flip it inside out and poke the middle chunk out. I then ironed it flat. The four red dots represent where I sewed domes onto the fabric the dome pair was then glued onto the Biotic Grenades which allowed them to to be attached and un attached. This was super helpful for trading as I didn’t want them getting squished.
Heres a close up of the domes I did post this earlier but this will make it a little bit more understandable.
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The eye patch was another really simple part of the costume.
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The light grey is 2mm foam with a large hole cut from the centre of it but leaving enough space for the top black piece to be glued on top. The black piece was made from 5mm foam and had holes dreamed into it, they’re not that well aligned I know! This was mostly covered by her fringe so its okay! One corner was painted blue. The strap is 1cm faux leather vinyl which was painted black and contact cemented into place. It actually stayed on really well, I did plan on using spirt gum to glue it to my face but as it was really hot and from a short distance the slight gap between my eye and the eye patch wasn’t noticeable. For my shoot with this costume I will use spirt gum.

 

Also while you can see it in the above photos, I remade the collar. I used the same pattern I jut made it a little wider in places and put curtain interfacing in it. I also sewed down the top of it to make it curve over and it worked out pretty well. I’m not 100% satisfied with it but its such an improvement on the last tiny, flat one.
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And while we’re looking at this photo lets talk about the little ‘armour’? pieces on her coat.
What are they? What purpose do they serve? We will never know.
The smaller ones (shape like fat squished coffins) were just 2mm foam layered. The centre back on was made from two layers of 5mm foam the top layer had the centre cut out where a smaller shape was glue in place. These were held in place with you guessed it industrial velcro.


Wig and makeup

The wig I used is Amber Classic Pure White (Arda Wigs). Which does have waves though it. I would have bought Buttercup Silky Pure White (Arda Wigs) but it was out of stock at the time and the restock wouldn’t happen in time. Buttercup is a straight wig.

For her Eye of Horus tattoo I used FM Anime Ana Temporary Tattoo I ordered five of these and I was sent six! If you do buy from FM Anime please order in advance, these took three weeks to get to me causing some stress! They are fantastic and are a perfect size, I can’t fault them at all!


And thats everything, I think! If I have missed anything I’ll edit it in later. I was planning a pattern post but as I’ve already found people have taken photos from my blog and re posted them without credit I’m not too keen now 😦 Also the amount of questions/comments I get sent asking about or for something when its clearly stated in either the post they comment on or a related post is getting on my nerves. I don’t spend hours typing this all up just to repeat myself in the comments, if I haven’t explained something as best I could or somethings missing them I’m more than happy to help and answer questions and update my post with that info.
Please read my posts 🙂

I will have another blog post up with photos from MCM at some point so look out for those! I have another convention coming up this month with a new costume for that as for other costumes this we’ll just see what gets done! I’m moving to London in September and starting my course at the end of the month so making things in between then could get hectic. I am slowly making the undergarments for my 1860’s ballgown but I don’t think that will get done before I move… Sorry mum! And because its mid year I’m starting to think about next years projects which doesn’t help with this years projects motivation!

Weekly posts have failed again this year but maybe next year I will complete my dream of running a consistent blog.
I’ll see you guys in the next one~

Thank you for reading
-Nivera

Ana Amari Biotic Rifle:Construction

My first ever gun prop was a success! This was made roughly over a two week period using,
EVA Foam (5mm and 2mm) from CosplayShop.
Contact Cement (glue) also from CosplayShop.
Rubber Tubing from B&Q
Blue Clear File Not exact item (example)

I am so happy with how this prop has turned out and its defiantly my best one yet! I’ve learnt a lot through making this and whats really stuck with me is how useful blueprints are in cosplay. I will be using them for every prop I make from on!

Biggest thank you to Cosplay Amino user Beariore for sending me their blue print they made for their Ana cosplay!
I discussed with Beariore and they’re happy for me to give out the final blueprint that they altered from an Original Blueprint made by u/babomazer by adding line-work, scaling it and converting it to PDF.
Below is the blueprint unscaled.
Biotic AnaIf you would like the scaled PDF blueprint that I made/used for my cosplay then please contact me via direct message on either Instagram, Twitter or my Facebook page. You can find me @NiverasWings on all of those sites!
The PDF version I used is scaled to best suit my heigh, I’m 5’7. Another important thing to note is that its made for A4 paper as opposed to American letter paper, please keep that in mind before contacting me. I’m very busy at the moment and don’t have time to custom scale this blueprint on request.
Besides! I have a tutorial for doing exactly that using the Biotic rifle as an example, so Check it out!


Construction

I started by scaling and printing out my blueprinted and then taping it together. I taped it using masking tape on the back as it was stronger and not transparent and then for the front I used cello tape as it was transparent and wouldn’t effect any of the lines.
Ana BlueprintThis was then cut up into separate pieces based on how I had decided to construct it. I did this by laying the full pattern out and with a pencil I drew how many layers I’d need for each piece and then divided up the patterns into manageable sizes that would work and fit together well.
I’ve seen the combination of patterns and their sizes done differently from other cosplayers I looked at for reference but this is how I did mine. The red outlines represent the large patterns I cut out first, these we traced to foam and then cut into smaller patterns for internal details.
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The layering ranged from one to five layers depending on the area and pattern. For example the cover over the top barrel is just one later of 5mm foam while the butt of the gun is five layers of 5mm foam with an additional two layers of 5mm foam detailing the top triangle.
I’m currently painting the gun but once thats complete I’ll try and add an image here that shows how many layers each section was as well as foam thickness. And if I’m feeling extra kind I’ll outline all of the details I put in too which helped me simplify the design.

I then traced my patterns out onto the foam and cut everything out gluing them together with the contact cement. This was my first time using the contact cement and boy dose it have a strong smell to it!
Work in a well ventilated area or open some windows!! The trick with contact cement is to apply a thin even coat on the contact points (marking these out does help), leave it to dry for two or so minutes and then bind it together. If the glue is slippery and the contact points aren’t sticking you haven’t left it to dry long enough!
And soon enough the base gun was there.
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This was when I laid out my mop handles which would form my barrels for the gun later on. This was a huge boost of confidence and gave me an idea of the scale I was working with.
I then drew out an outline of what I wanted dremeled, this was only 0.5cm and I marked along the outside of the foam with a pen to give me an indication of when to stop dremeling. You can vaguely see these markings in the below picture.
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This was all glued together with contact cement, I applied it everywhere there might be contact for these pieces as I wanted no chance of it falling to bits.
Next I started adding details on top of this with the 2mm foam and some 5mm foam in places. I used the blueprint as a guide for this.7b85fc3037d036843d69e2d2a00bdececcd2024d_hq
Next up I added another small layer to the gun extending the pattern down slightly because I trimmed too much earlier in the build:sweat_smile:. You can see this gap in earlier pictures. I had to use a little bit of hot glue in the gap just to firmly hold things in place and also ‘fill’ the gap in where it was exposed on the edge.
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I also swapped out the foam I planed on using as the pipe for some rubber tubing. Which I think is such an improvement!
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Next up I made the canister thing as the bottom of the gun. I used the blue print patterns for this but just made the sides ever so slightly wider so they could be glued at the seams without shrinking in size too much.
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There’s air trapped inside it with the smallest hole in the seam so when you squeeze it it makes a hissing sound, I find it wayyyy too entertaining.
This was followed by another ‘mop-up’ (see what I did there mop-up instead of mock-up, I’m hilarious)
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This made me so happy!! There was light at the end of the tunnel yet!
I also fixed up the lower barrel mop end with some clay as it broke a little when I stomped on it to free it from the mop…
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And somehow it came together and looked pretty damn great!
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Next was putting the gun together, because I knew id have to take the gun on the tube I wanted it to be detachable so that I could take it apart to travel on the tube.
Originally I had wanted the gun to assemble with magnets inlaid into the foam for a seamless and sturdy finish. Unfortunately with the con only being two weeks away at this point and me not being able to find magnets in sizes that would fit/strong enough/reasonable price this changed to a good old friend of mine.
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No magnets? Industrial velcro it is.

So heres how I attached everything with velcro,
I’ve used coloured outlines which will match the opposite sides of the velcro to each other, hopefully this makes understanding how it was put together easier.
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I had a strip of velcro (toothed side) running along the top of the rifle (red). This is where the barrel would connect to.
There was a patch (toothed side) just below that (blue) which is where the cover folds over and connects to.
Then below that on the front of the gun is a circular patch (toothed side) (green) where the lower barrel would attach to.
A close up of the two lower velcro placements can be seen below.
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To put it together I would first get the lower barrel and stick it to the main rifle piece using the green velcro patches. The lower barrel piece also has two support beams(? I have no idea what to call them) which can been seen in pink and yellow (both soft side).
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When connected through the velcro in green the gun now looks like this.
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The next piece is the cover, this is the blue piece that literally just covers part of the barrel which is saw as a great opportunity to use as a weight to keep the barrel in place.
The light blue velcro (soft side) will attach onto the barrel.
The dark blue velcro (soft side) seen previously, will watch onto the base of the gun.
The pink and yellow velcro (toothed side) Which is actually just one strip attach onto the ‘support beams’ mentioned earlier.
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Below is a better picture of how it all attaches before being put together.
Watch was my drawing quality takes a turn for the worse.
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Are we still following?
Ignore the pink line line with the light blue at the bottom it was a mistake. Basically the cover just folds over connecting with the velcro along the way. The light pink line of velcro (toothed side) on top of the barrel is where the scope will attach later on. Theres a line of velcro (soft side) along the bottom of the barrel which attaches to the line of velcro on the base gun, this is seen in red.

The scope then attaches to the top of the barrel seen as the light pink lie in the previous picture.
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Which looks like this! Yay!
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And you’re all done!
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Finish it off with a shoddy paint job and you’re good to go!
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But in all seriousness I love this prop so much its defiantly my favourite to date!
If you want to know how to draw your own prop blueprints (with no fancy photoshop) I have a tutorial all about that Which you can read here!  And if you want to know how to scale and print those blueprints I have a another tutorial for that here!


I haven’t posted in a month and I am so sorry about that, it was such a rush to get all this done then I was away at the con wearing Ana and now work is super crazy every night!

I plan on having the last construction post for Ana to be up for next week maybe earlier and then I can start talking about new projects which I been saying I would do for months .. Ha ha.

Anyway back on board with regular posting! I love you all and if you have any questions don’t hesitate to ask!

Thank you for reading
-Nivera

Nightingale Armour Remake 2017 Part 1

And so my hobby of cosplaying from Skyrim comes in a full circle.

I think it was mid way though 2015 where I played with the idea of re-making my Nightingale armour set from Skyrim. The armour is by far my favourite set from the game. I am very pleased with my first make of the set, it was my first self made cosplay and was very ambitious considering I hated textiles at school at the time.
Bodysuit arrived mased made
That selfie remains to be the best photo of me ever taken. I was 15 then, now 18…
I think whats so appealing about the Nightingale Armour is just how badass it looks. You’re a medieval ninja, whats not to love!!
I wanted to do it better, more details, see how I’ve improved as a costume maker and get some more in character photos.


I’m so happy with the accuracy of the remake so far, it’s already taking a better shape and is more form fitting.

I think something that’s really important to note about the Nightingale armour is that’s you’re far better off referencing source material rather than other cosplayers. There are many details that go into the main pieces and everyone interprets them differently. There’s nothing wrong with using other cosplayers material to guid you however! I referenced Dewbunch a lot when it came to patterning my set.

The main two reference images I used were,

This image from the official Skyrim art book. (Also available in the Man, Mer, Beasts Book)
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And this amazing picture which shows the set front and back without the cape!
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Worklog!

I started by wrapping myself in plastic wrap and painters tape covering the areas I wanted to pattern. I then cut myself out, put it on my dressform and taped it back up again and began drawing my patterns.
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I focused on just patterning the ‘breastplate’ portion this time round. Earlier in the year I had attempted to pattern both the breastplate and the belt portion of the armour in one go, this didn’t work as they layered to closely together making for a very tight fit. I also patterned everything far too small on that attempt!

I then cut these pattern out and numbered them all making a note of what number corresponds with which patterns.
I was happy with the shape and moved onto making a mockup. I just used regular old printing paper in an A3 size.
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It was still sitting the way I wanted it to do I tapped it all together for a try on!
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It fit perfectly!!
I only made one alteration and that was lowering the neckline by about 1.5cm, it was cutting into my neck a little bit and there needed to be at least 0.5cm for the standing collar.

Next was time to transfer everything to foam!

I used Cosplay Shop EVA Foam in the 0.5cm size.
THIS FOAM IS AMAZING
This is the foam Kamui Cosplay is currently using (endorsing) for all of her cosplays. It’s not expensive, I bought three 0.5cm sheets and a 0.2cm sheet all for £35 including shipping.
When I’ve completed this cosplay I’ll make a full review!
Because I will be covering this in stretch faux leather I wasn’t too worried about damaging the foam so I pinned my patterns to the foam before tracing and then cutting out.

It’s cuts so well too!!! None of that raw edge fraying foam you get with yoga mats. It’s so dense and doesn’t rip unless you put a lot of force on it.
This foam is actually the love of my life
Next I tapped all of my pieces together and tried it on again, happy to find it still worked perfectly!!!
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I then patterned the belt and skirting which I don’t have patterning photos of but here’s the finished belt with paper patterns for the skirting

I did another fit test using tape to connect the belt pieces and was once again really happy with the fit and how everything sat.
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At this stage I had gone through the two rolls of foam I first ordered and had to wait for my next order to arrive. this time ordering three 5mm rolls and one 2mm roll. When they arrived I transferred the patterns to foam and did a mock fit test.

These picture make me so happy!!! The accuracy is great and I’m so happy to see how I’ve improved as a costume maker in three years!
I’m currently cutting out raised details from the 2mm foam which will boarder some of the edges of the armour pieces to give it some extra texture and more depth making it look layered in areas.

My stretch faux leather sample should be arriving in the post over the next few days and if I’m happy with it I’ll order enough to cover the whole set. This will be glued down with contact cement, I haven’t used it yet but I hope it lives up to its ‘I’ll stick anything together’ reputation!

I’ve also drawn up a blueprint for the Nightingale Bow, you can see how I did that in My previous post.
Nightingale done

I’m yet to scale and print it but I’m very happy with how it looks!

I’ll be reusing my cape, bodysuit and boots from my original Nightingale Armour set which means I won’t have to do any sewing for this cosplay, save it all for my ball gown.


Next month I’ll be attending MCM Comic Con in London where I will be wearing my Ana Amari Cosplay, so I’m busy working on that now to get it all finished in time. Jamilla will be Widow Maker and I’m so excited to get a shoot together and meet each other finally!

Ana updates coming but my next post will be about the fabrics I have got for my 1860’s ball gown which I’m so happy with!

 

Thank you for reading
-Nivera

Tutorial: Drawing Blueprints MacBook (free)

I got halfway through writing this tutorial using Auriel’s Bow as an example but gave up due to it being too complicated/detailed and just couldn’t be bothered finishing it. But a week later I decided to try again this time using the Nightingale Bow as an example. This was perfect as I’m planing a particular remake that will benefit from this blueprint, hint hint!

This tutorial will go though step by step showing how to use a MacBooks built in function and a free app to make blueprints for props. I’m not that great when it comes to using photoshop programs and I didn’t really want to spend money on buying one to then learn how to use. So when I stumbled upon these functions through some online forums I was more than excited to test their worthiness for making blueprints.

Tutorial Time

 

The first thing you want to do is download a free app called “Paint X Lite” from the App Store. You won’t need the full version for this.

Then you want to find a reference photo that show what you want to make at a flat angle. Its better your reference photo is flat as this makes drawing it out easier because you have a full view the prop.

Below I have included what is a good reference image looks like vs a bad one.

Notice how the second picture isn’t quite flat which obscures the outside lines, while the first picture is completely flat showing the overall shape as well as the fine details. I think its also important to note that if you can its best to get a reference image that has a transparent or white background. This will mean you use less ink when printing and don’t have to spend time whiting the background out yourself.

I got my reference image from the Skyrim Wiki which I linked earlier. The background is transparent which is a great bonus.
step 1

Then you want to save that image, I saved mine to a folder containing all of my reference images and progress pictures keeping things together.
step 2
You then want to open your image up and it will look like this.
step 3
Next you want to click on the little briefcase icon at the top of the page. This is called the “Markup Toolbar” and its what you’ll be using to draw the blueprint.
step 4
Now because the Nightingale bow is mostly black using a black outline is going to be difficult. So for this I decided to use red as a base outline colour but any contrasting colour will work.  You can change the colour of the pen by selecting the two boxes (circled) at the top of the page and changing them to a contrasting colour.
step 5
To begin drawing your outline you have two options. You can use ‘shapes’ which is similar to Vector drawing. Or you can select ‘sketch’ which is just as it sounds but cleaning up lines is easier. Sketch is highlighted in blue which shapes is highlighted in red. For the first part of this tutorial I’ll be showing how to use the shapes option but I’ll switch to sketch later on. Use which ever suits you!
step 6
When using shapes once you click the diagonal line in the drop down box a line will appear with three dots on it, one on either end and in the centre. I’m going to refer to these as ‘side nodes’ and ‘centre node’, because I actually remember information from Year 12 maths!
step 7
Mastering how these lines work takes a little bit of time but here are a few basic rules to get you going.
You can make the line smaller by clicking and dragging a side node closer to the centre node. This also works in reverse by dragging a side node away from a centre node making the line larger.
You can pick up and move the lines anywhere by moving your cursor over the line until it becomes a hand indicating that you can pick it up, you can then move the whole line anywhere. Alternatively you can just drag one side node to the spot you want it and then move the other side node into the position you want it as well.
The centre node it key for making curves. By clicking and dragging the centre node in any direction to create a curve. You can create tight curves by moving the centre node closer to one of the side nodes or gradual curves by keeping an Evan distance between the centre node and the side nodes.
Its all about experimenting! The lines are movable (within the same session) once you’ve placed them if you make any mistakes.
step 9
For example above I have stretched the two side nodes to the outside of the bow over a curve. By clicking and dragging the centre node to the curve and moving it around until it lines up with the outline of the bow it forms a curve exactly like that on the prop.
step 10
By continuing to do this all the way around your prop it’ll be outlined in no time.

TIP, sometimes using smaller consecutive lines will make going around tight corners or sharp angels that much easier.

Here I have finished outlining the outside of one half of the bow and can start on the details inside the bow.
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Before I start that though I’m going to change the line thickness to something smaller which will make the details that little bit more accurate. It also means that there won’t be any thick lines to overlap or get too close to one another.
step 12
You can change the line thickness by clicking on the icon that is just three lines in different sizes on top of each other. Self explanatory really!
step 13
Once you’ve finished with the inside details take a step back and appreciate your hard work. Or in my case prepare yourself to start on the OTHER half of the bow.
step 14
All done! It looks almost done but theres still one major thing to do. And thats get rid of the original colour on the interior of the blueprint. In order for this to print well it really needs to be white but if your happy with it at this stage then thats okay too!

Close out of the image, it will save on it own don’t worry! Then right click on it and click on ‘Open with Paint X Lite’
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Paint X Lite (I’m just going to refer to it as PXL from now on) will open up you image like it has done below.step 15
PXL is essentially Microsoft Paint for MacBooks. You’ll find most of MSPaints tools available on this version. By the way if you want to zoom you can’t manually zoom by using the touch pad but instead got to ‘View’ next to ‘Home’ and then click on zoom or unzoom. It took me far too long to work that out on my own…
step 16
Unfortunately as there isn’t a layering system (at leat with the free version I’m unsure about the full one), the next task is to use the eraser tool and start erasing all of the original image but being carful not to erase the lines you have drawn. These lines can be touched up later so you don’t have to be overly carful, just as long as you know the general shape.
As I had to use a contrasting colour for the first outline I wanted to change the red lines to black as I find it reads better on a blue print. I also didn’t want to unnecessarily use up coloured ink. You can try and use the paint bucket tool to select sections of the outline to colour black but the method is time consuming and you’re better off using the next technique.
step 17
Here I opened up the image in mark up again and this time started using the sketch tool to draw over the red lines (I ended up drawing over all of the lines again).
The great thing about the sketch function is that you can draw the lines in any length and when you finish a line the side and centre nodes will appear meaning you can change the shapes it if you didn’t do something they way you wanted the first time.step 18
Another awesome thing is being able to draw curves more easily. Like when a drew the spiral pattern above it didn’t flex into a straight line instead maintaining the spiral design. Its also important to not the top left corner, sometimes if the line you draw is similar to a straight line it will flex into a straight line to undo this from happening just click on top box (the blue one) which will be the shape you originally drew and it will flex back into that shape. This also happens with drawing curvy designs and they may flex into circles, again just select the box that has a picture of your draw design and it will change back.

Then just keep drawing over the lines until your finished!
Nightingale done
Take a step back and marvel at your awesome new blueprint!
Making this blueprint took me around 3 hours, remember the level of detail and the size of the prop you’re working on will impact on how long it takes to draw it up. Once I had some music playing the process was kind of relaxing and not as bad as you might think. Its fun to do once you get the hang of using all the different tools.

But now you have your blueprint, how should you print it?

Well I have a tutorial for that too! Scaling/Printing Blueprints (Posterazor). It really easy and simple to use and doesn’t require any fancy maths or photoshop. Which is perfect for people like me who are terrible at that stuff.

And thats how I draw all of my blueprints up! I hope this tutorial helps with your own projects and if you use this tutorial I’d love to see the outcome!
If theres anything you think I can add or explain better please tell me, I’m always looking to improve my work and make documenting my work beneficial for others.


Thank you for reading
-Nivera

I got into Wimbledon College of Arts!

 

This is a post I could have written early February but as I hadn’t received official confirmation or a written offer I decided to leave things until I knew I was in for sure.

Lets start at the beginning, through UCAS I applied for 5 universities/colleges all for their offered costume courses. My main two choices were Wimbledon College of Arts and the London School of Speech and Drama. I had thought about applying for RADA but decided not to later on.  I received interviews from both of these courses as well as interviews for two of the other courses outside of London (The last school asked for more documents from me which I didn’t send as they were last on my priority list). Wimbledon (my first choice) offered me an interview second to LSSD but as the interview for Wimbledon came first it was the first one I attended. This was on the second of February, and to my knowledge it was apart of the first sets of interviews they were offering.
The second of February came around and I went to London with my portfolio and my other costume related documents as well as my 1500’s ensemble. My interview went really well and there were defiantly a few times during the interview where I could see the tutors eyes light up at my response to her questions and when I explained my method of work. This left me pretty happy afterwards and was told I would hear back from them in about two weeks. Which I didn’t think was too bad a wait. So I left my interview and hoped on the tube ready to go home. it took about 50 minutes to get to my stop (after a few station changes) and literally as I got off at my stop my phone rang. I almost didn’t answer as I was really tired after the day but I’m so glad I did.
A woman was on the phone from Wimbledon and she said that they had just finished up the interviews for the day and wanted to give notice to those they were offering places to. She said that the tutor (who’s name I’ve forgotten!! I’m terrible) was very impressed with my interview and my portfolio and wanted to notify me that I would be receiving an offer from them. I nearly cried when I hung up the phone, I’m not kidding. To be offered a place so quickly at my first choice school was mind blowing and has really given me a confidence boost in terms of my work.
After receiving my offer from Wimbledon I withdrew from my other applications and accepted Wimbledon’s offer. Which makes me ridiculously happy, I’m going to study costume in London!
But, yes of course there had to be a but.
Because I haven’t lived in the UK for three years I must pay international fees. I’ve been a British citizen since I was born and all of my mothers family live here but that three year rule tripped me up.
The fees literally double to nearly £19,000 a year as an international student which is something I really don’t want to pay.
However if I defer my entry to next year (September 2018) I will only need to pay one year as an international student as by the time the second year rolls around I will have been here for three years depending on how they calculate everything. I’m currently waiting on a document from NZ to arrive so once thats here I’ll ring the International department and talk things through with them and possibly a tutor.
Regardless of all of this, IM IN. And will be attending if its this year or the next.

But I want to know what other people think, should I go this year or wait a year to cut my costs slightly. If I do wait for next year I want to speak to one of the tutors and ask what I can be working on during my year away. That way they know I’m 100% interested but also keeping with costume making. I will be working during the year and would love to travel around Europe before study but this will all depend on what my fees look like.


 

Ana Amari update coming soon followed by a new costume.

Thank your for reading and feedback is always appreciated!
-Nivera

Pattern & Fabric Haul (February 2017)

This post is a little late but I decided an update on Ana was more exciting!

Late in February Mum and I went to Hertfordshire to visit my grandmother and other family there (a trip we try to make once a month). While there I decided to have a look for some fabric shops as I needed to buy some fabric for the crinoline pattern I recently purchased for my 1860’s ballgown.
I used Pinterest to look for crinoline patterns and found mostly discontinued patterns or companies that wouldn’t ship outside of America. I found simplicity 9764 (apart of the Fashion Historian collection) and immediately saw that it would be perfect for my ballgown as it’s silhouette was made for the 1860’s but also found it was discontinued. I really wanted this pattern and found it for sale on a few sites although some of these listings were selling used/cut patterns which I wasn’t a fan of. I eventually found an unopened pattern on Ebay for around £15 which I was more than happy to pay considering USED patterns could sell for £30 upwards. It arrived a few days later in perfect condition as described and I took t with me to Hertfordshire and then on to the fabric stores to help with fabric measurements.
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The store I went to was called Neddle Craft, its a small stores but has a lot of different fabrics and notions pilled in. I was really pleased to see they has sewing patterns in stock too. Because of this is decided to look through them and see if I could find the matching Simplicity corset pattern to make and wear with my 1860’s dress. I had been unsure about making the corset previously but felt having a pattern would make thing much easier. And amazingly the store had all patterns marked down to half price that day so it was was an easy decision to get a few more while I was there.

The Patterns!
Simplicity 1139
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The perfect match!! These ‘Fashion Historian’ patterns have been around for a while from what I can tell so there will be some variation on what their code numbers are depending on what pattern books they were released in and the country, I think? Thats the only reason I can think of that would meaning change the code numbers!
So if your looking to buy these patterns keep that in mind!

I also decided to get a skirt pattern that would fit over a crinoline and petticoat and found Simplicity 1818.
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I decided to buy a skirt pattern because it would give me a better idea of what the shape and construction of a historical garment should look like. Looking back on my 1500’s dress where I drape drafted a skirt pattern (god the initial shapes were awful) I decided following a proper patter would be a better option. It also meant that for future reference I’d know more about shape and silhouette and how a pattern contributes to that. Just looking at the construction notes on pattern shapes in this pattern has already mad me go “Ah! that makes more sense” a number of times.

Next up is Simplicity 8286 a bodysuit pattern that closely resembles the McCalls Yaya Han bodysuit.
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I also own the Yaya Han bodysuit pattern but as its disappeared on me (probably in a box thats apart of our overflow furniture yet to be delivered) I decided to give this one a go. Bodysuit patterns are really useful in cosplay and there is something I’d like to make in the future that would require one. Though it is low on this list of priorities right now!

And the final pattern in Simplicity 8276, a onesie pattern!
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I’ve wanted a new onesie for a while now and I was sooooo damn happy to see Simplicity release this pattern last year. I’ve seen so many cosplayer in the past (post pattern release) try to construct and pattern a onesie trying to replicate the original Kigurumi onesies. And I can defiantly see why it would be so difficult. But this pattern cam along and a sigh of relief was herd among all cosplayers.
I would like to make one based of the Pokemon Vaporeon. I will take inspiration from 4Kigurumi’s Vaporeon Onesie but I can tell you now my material cost will not amount up to what their onesie is listed as in price. I’ve already looked at material costs for this and I’ll be WELL under.

 

Fabric and Notions!

For the crinoline I bought 4 meters of bleached calico.3qbvC4Il.jpg-large
I wanted a really sturdy medium to heavy weight fabric and this was just perfect for that. I did consider buying it in another colour but as the crinoline wouldn’t be seen in most is not all of my photos white was the perfect natural colour to go for.

24 meters of inch wide twill tape.
Yup 24 meters, did I stutter?
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A you can see the lady in the store gave up rolling it neatly, I don’t blame her. I probably would have tossed it in the bag un-rolled!!!. You should have seen her face when I told her I needed 24 meters. She asked if I read it wrong and really meant 2.4 but after viewing the pattern she believed me.

I also decided to get some new thread for this and took into consideration that there would be a lot of sewing involved so a lot of thread was needed. 800 meters should do?
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This threat will be used for the petticoat (9764) and corset (1139) as well which will be made in white as well. Maybe I’ll add some trims to the corset, I’m not sure at the moment.

And lastly some hooks and eyes.
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I could only find large hooks and eyes in my collection and as the pattern called for small ones I decided it was best to buy these ones.

And that it for this haul, I will be ordering some fabrics online for my next costume(s) so if I get enough I’ll do a review of sorts for the website.
Ana will be finished in about a week I’m thinking so I’ll have an official line up for what I’m making over the next few months up when thats complete.


Have any suggestions? Or prior experience with the patterns I’ve bought?
I’d love to hear it!

Thank you for reading,
-Nivera

Ana (Overwatch) Work-log 2

Its been just over a moth since I last updated on my Ana cosplay and I think I’ve covered a lot since than and would say that the base costume is now complete! Yay!

After completing the coat I made a start on the jacket thats worn beneath it. I unfortunately don’t have many photos of its construction as I completed the base in one day but it was pretty simple. (loose threads I know)
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It’s essentially a large ‘vest’ pattern with an diagonal opening on the front. I purposely made it extra large so it would look baggy. I also satin stitched the faux leather on to trim the zipper and around the edge of the collar. The collar is lined with interfacing and then padded with one layer of quilt batting to thicken it out, the middle portion of the collar is sewn with faux leather to add some more depth. In the above picture its only pinned so it does appear bulky.
On the collar you’ll spot a little triangle emblem.

This was sewn on with top stitching thread and I guess you could call it embroidery ? Maybe, its my first time doing anything of the sort. My grandmother was excited to see me trying this technique out but had some constructive criticism for me in the future.

The zipper I used was a chunky 18″ black zipper I dry brushed silver to give a worn look, it only needed the one coat. Even after frequently using the zipper I haven’t noticed and paint chipping or loss of colour.

The hood was again pretty simple, I traced a previously used hood pattern and made it a little larger (I wish I had made it bigger now) with the details cut from faux leather, ironed on with heat n bond and satin stitched down to create that bordered edge I love so much.
I think I’m obsessed with satin stitch, but it just looks so nice.

I also made her pants. I used Simplicity 8134, the crotch was really low for some reason
(I honestly don’t know why, I didn’t change the pattern at all and I did not get the patterns around the wrong way so that was a little confusing) so I had to bring the crotch up a little not too much as I did want some baggy-ness going on.
And I’m actually really pleased with the result.
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I also sewed little belt loops onto it and added cuffs to the bottom of the legs so they would sit close to my knee. I made a belt as well from left over brown fabric I had in my collection  the colour was different to the others I had used which I like, I think it makes a nice contrast.
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This photo leads us onto her pack which hangs off the belt. And boy did I make this hard for myself. I basically didn’t think about layering what so ever and ended up with six hours of hand sewing to pay for it. Ugh.
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I drew up the pattern for it on A3 measuring as I went and I was pretty happy with the size and shape of it. Excuse the paint, its what I used to eventually paint the real thing .
I used faux leather vinyl (you know the seriously thick stuff that’s like sewing rubber) for the top (facing side) and then black heavy weight cotton (possibly canvas, I can’t remember) for everything else.
Please don’t sew vinyl by hand, you will destroy your hands.
For the top details (I have no idea what they are!) I used vinyl backed with the cotton, this gave it enough thickness to spring away from the base layer giving it a 3D effect.
I then just used normal (thin) faux leather for the loops below that.
All sewn by hand, Haha ha…
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The paint job isn’t finished just yet but its the right size and shape and for that I’m really happy with it. I wanted the paint to match the blue fabric I used elsewhere on the costume as much as possible and was lucky to find one of my tubes (without any mixing) was an exact match.
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It’s pretty well perfect!! I usually hate mixing paint so this saved me a lot of time.
To get the lines perfect I use painters tape along the lines I drew to ensure there would be no leaking. Though there was little it’s easy enough to remove.
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I also sewed little loops onto the top of the pack so the belt could be threaded through them which would hold it up.
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I’ve also made a start on her rifle which I made using the blueprint from my previous post.
I’m just waiting on some contact cement (glue) before I can put it together. The parts that have been cut out are what I consider to be ‘main pieces’ and once those are together I’ll build on it with the smaller details.
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I got to use my Dremel for the first time on this so that was exciting and a bit of a learning experience. I messed up a few times but the holes and gashes I made can be fixed easily with Apoxie Sculpt later.

And that’s it for now!
My next goals are her armour, eye patch and gloved sleeves. With those done the cosplay will be finished with only her rifle left to make. I’ll buy the wig the next time I get paid. I still need to hem and weather the coat but that can wait for now.


More updates coming soon , I’ve half written a fabric/pattern haul post so that will be out in the next few days too.

Thank you for reading
-Nivera