1890’s Waistcoat

IMG_7090I started my waistcoat by drafting the basic waistcoat block, this didn’t have any stylistic features as I wasn’t sure what direction I wanted to take my waistcoat at this stage. I found the drafting process reasonably easy but the tutors were giving different methods of directions which did cause a little bit of confusion but I managed to keep my waistcoat drafting consistent.





IMG_7091The next day after doing some research into the type of waistcoat I wanted to make (I looked into 18th and the second half of the 19th century waistcoats and settled on a waistcoat from 1890), I really liked its style and general shape. I began drafting and attempting to replicate its features on my waistcoat block resulting in my first waistcoat draft. I ended up taking my draft in on wednesday and saw my tutor who helped me refine the draft. I showed her the image of the waistcoat I wanted to replicate and she brought up that the waistcoat looked very similar to a waistcoat featured in “Men’s Garments 1830-1900, A guide to pattern cutting and tailoring” by R. I. Davis. Hester found a copy of the book for me and sure enough the waistcoats were strikingly similar. I then scanned and printed all of the pages in relation to that waistcoat, both for research and and reference. I didn’t trace the pattern from the book at all however I did use it as a point of reference for pocket placement and their sizes.

I found that pockets move around and change shape a lot throughout history and I wanted my waistcoat to be an accurate representation of the era. My tutor also showed me to draw my waistcoat lines as a curve as they shape over the body much better than straight lines. I then altered all of my lines (apart from CB and CB) to be ever so slightly curved. I retraced my grainlines as they were now off due to the alterations, drew my pockets in, shaped the neckline and drew in the collar. I also traced my chest and waistline incase they were needed again later on. With those alterations made I had a new final draft pattern.

I then traced the patterns off of my master copy making a seperate pattern for my collar. Hester instructed not to cut them out on the line but to instead leave a small outline around the edge so I could then sew into the paper when sewing my tailors tacks and tear the paper off at the end leaving my tracks behind.


IMG_7108In the next lesson I started on my tailors tacks, I found using a back stitch worked best for me and I was able to get through my tacks quite quickly. I colour coded each individual piece on the waistcoat making identification easier later on. I found it easy sewing though the paper and I felt that it would yield more accurate markings than attempting to chalk everything and then tack the markings through.

IMG_7109When I had finished it came to the tear off, in my mind this was going to go smoothly but was a little more difficult than I had imagined. I ended up having to hold the wool down and carefully tear the paper off bit by bit rather than being able to tear the whole thing off in one go. This left my pattern a ripped mess, it wasn’t my master so I wasn’t too worried but I still laughed at how awful it looked.
I think this was down to the paper thickness, if I were to do this again I would try transfering my pattern to tissue paper, then tailor tack through and pull the tissue paper off. I think I would have more success with the lighter tissue paper.
IMG_7115I was really impressed with how well the tacks transferred onto the wool, there were a few gaps where the tacks had pulled through but the wool was still easily identifiable. I then mounted the wool to the canvas after giving the canvas a press. The two fabrics were then held together with a long running stitch which I circled around the waistcoat three times. At this point I found my waistcoat getting quite dusty (the black seams to be an impossible magnet for dust) so whenever I stored my waistcoat I attempted to weight paper on top of it to keep the dust off of it.

IMG_7141Next came sewing the welt pockets, I found this process really interesting although it was quite lengthy yet methodical. I started with making the welt and taking my lines in to make identification easier when sewing everything together. I left a chunk of fabric and the top and bottom of the welt (past the seam allowance), I don’t remember why I did this but I even up cutting it off before the next step.

IMG_7144The welt was sewn onto the waistcoat and the welt was sewn up creating a rectangle. The pocket opening was then slashed (making sure not to catch any of the wrong fabrics in the process), I found pinning absolutely everything away from where the opening should be before cutting into the fabric worked best as it took the anxiety of cutting into the wrong fabrics away. The welt is then bagged out and everything is flipped through to the wrong side.



IMG_7177My tutor suggested to tack down the welt at this point to stop it from shifting. I then gave everything a firm press.
Then the pocket bag is sewn in, we had the option of using our (chosen) lining fabric or using the black fabric provided in our packs. I decided to use the black fabric provided as I wanted to keep my lining fabric for the back piece only.





I realised quickly that you had to be quite accurate with your sewing as to not catch the top fabric when sewing the bags in. I marked out each bag, making sure to leave a gap as the bottom of the lower pockets so they wouldn’t fall lower than the bottom hem of the waistcoat. And for the top pocket I made sure it didn’t fall low enough that it came into contact with the pocket below it.

I marked in chalk the size of the pocket bags before sewing them. I was very careful not to cut the pocket bags until I had inspected them just in case the fabric shifted or they were too small.

I’m very pleased with how my pockets have tuned out. All three of them sit flat against the canvas and I haven’t found any issues with them.
After the pocket bags were sewn I stitched the sides of the welts down so they would sit flush with the waistcoat. I hand stitched from the wrong side of the fabric so that there would be no visible stitching.

This was the result of my welt pockets.

Next two sew were the collars. I cut my lining and wool out and sewd them right sides together. I then trimmed down the seam allowance and ironed open the seams as best I could. I found suing a tailors ham worked quite well in some areas but the wool was very resisten and needed to be heavily steamed before it was doing what I wanted it to. The collars were then flipped right sides out and pressed. When pressing the collars I made sure to roll the wool over slightly which concealed the lining from the front. Again the woll was a pain to press during this process, the hardest areas were the sharp corners but a lot of steam got me there in the end.

IMG_7216Here my tutor suggested that I place the collar onto my waistcoat and tack the lining to the outside stitchline on the waistcoat. This would help keep the collar in place. After sewing these tacking lines I sewd the collar lining onto the wool of the waistcoat (keeping close the the outline of the collar) which would hold the collar down and prevent the collar from flipping up while being worn




Next the facing and lining were sewn on, I matched the facing up with the stitching lines so that it sat exactly where it should. I was also keeping in mind to make sure the collar wasn’t being moved when pinning/sewing.
The lining was also sewn on by matching the stitching lines together however, the lining was only sewn on around the armhole as the rest would be hand stitch in.

IMG_7217The back pieces were sewn together and this was my first real encounter with how slippery my lining fabric was. I ended up using a lot of pins to prevent the fabrics from moving away from each other.




Next I cut down the seam allowance for the arm opening on the front of the waistcoat, the curves were also clipped to add ease to the fabric when flipping it out.
This was then pressed into place.

The facing was then pinned down into place where I herringbone stitched it to the canvas.

The lining was then turned over and pinned over top of the facing and waistcoat bottom edge making sure to cover everything so no canvas or gaps were visible. I stitched this down using a small whip stitch in a black thread which blended quite well with the wool and purple lining.

I cut my waistcoat jiggers out using the pattern available in class. Due to my lining fabric being so light when ironing them out the wiggles a little bit but I don’t think this will be noticeable on the waistcoat onced the jiggers are threaded through the buckle.
IMG_7235After the jiggers were prepared I continued with the waistcoat back pieces. This included sewing the two back pieces (back and lining) together at the bottom edge  while leaving a 6 inch gap where the waistcoat would be bagged out later on. The armholes were also sewn together at this point.

The waistcoat fronts were then put in between the two layers of the back pieces, lining up the waist coat sides together. At this point I also put the jiggers into these seams so they sat on the waistline back.

Once I had sewn the side seams I pinned and sewd the shoulder seams into place.
The waistcoat was then bagged out and flipped to the right side where I checked it over for any imperfections/tucks. Luckily I didn’t find anything.
I finished off the bottom of the waistcoat by closing the 6 inch gap used to bag the waistcoat out. I pinned the opening closed and used a slip stitch to close it off.

I decided to use covered buttons for my waistcoat so I could match them to my lining fabric. My tutor showed me how to use the covered button machine (press?), we decided that because my lining was so thin it would need an extra layer. I first tried doubling the lining fabrics together but they were still too flimsy. My tutor suggested that I interface the back of the lining and then cut out the covers. This was much more successful and I soon got the hang of using the press. I really like the results and I will definitely be using covered buttons for future projects.

Finally came the button holes, because my waistcoat is based on a 1890’s piece the only historically accurate buttonhole is the keyhole buttonhole. I did practice hand sewing the keyhole buttonhole but I’m far from perfect! I’m not happy enough with my samples to feel confident enough sewing them into my waistcoat. However, my tutor in the last tech skills mentioned that there’s a ‘Buttonhole Man’ who will sew keyhole buttonholes into garments for you. She showed me examples from the 3rd years who had brought their garments to him and I was very impressed. And I have decided that will be my buttonhole option.
In preparation for bringing my waistcoat to the button man I marked the button and buttonhole placement on my waistcoat in chalk. I also tacked the centre front line in white. I also took out the rest of the tacking lines on the waistcoat which was very satisfying!!

When I got to the buttonhole man’s shop I was told that the markings should be on the wrong side (the facing) of the fabric so I quickly remarked them. I was lucky enough that they didn’t have a lot of work that day and the button holes were done while I was waiting which took about five minutes.
When I got my waistcoat home I hand stitched my covered buttons on. I also made sure I got rid of all of my tailors tacking using tweezers for any strands that were wedged between stitches. Anything I couldn’t remove I snipped off as close to the wool as possible and jiggled the wool around until it disappeared from the surface.
And my waistcoat was finished!
I’m very pleased with this project and have learnt a lot of new skills from it which I will definitely be implementing into future projects. It’s encouraged me a lot with working with more formal garments and I’d love to make a ladies late victorian walking suit using these skills



If you made it this far, well done. I lost motivation for blogging the last few months and a lot of the projects I was working on (in my opinion) weren’t inspired enough to earn solo blog posts so I simply never wrote about them. In the next week or so I will do a round up of everything I’ve covered in my first year of university but forewarning, I struggled. Not with the workload or anything academic just the fact that the first year was a mixed bag or interpretation (my chosen specialism) and design (something I’m not so interested in). This dragged me a lot and a think for a little while I got a bit depressed caught up on the idea that the first year was a wasted opportunity for me to specialise straight away, this played on my mine more so because I’m having to pay international fees (unjustly by the way I’m a British citizen thank you /you can read more about that in a earlier post I believe/) which is expensive to say the least.
I am greatly enjoying Wimbledon College of Arts however and I’m still very pleased to be studying here. I had a meeting with the course director today and the second year in terms of interpretation is much more appealing and I’m excited for it!
Summer holidays is just about here, as I move out of London on Wednesday and I’ll be free to start and continue projects that got put on the back burner. And I will be posting again, it may not be as frequent as my weekly posts of the past but they’ll be more regular than the huge breaks I been taking recently.


Also if you’re on Instagram check me out, I post there a lot more. See my story for work in progress costumes and the like. I’m @NiverasWings as always!

Thank you for reading and thank you for putting up with the long breaks!


*I’m posting this late so apologies for any spelling/grammatical errors, I’ll edit in the morning


Tutorial, Scaling/Printing Blueprints (Posterazor)

Hi! If you’re here looking for how to make Ana’s Biotic Rifle check out this construction post! This blog post just covers how to scale/print blueprints using the Biotic Rifle as an example!
Thank you for checking out my blog!!!

Today’s tutorial is all about using the program ‘Posterazor’ to scale and print your blueprints for cosplay. If you’re like me an photoshop isn’t your thing then this program is perfect for doing the work for you with little maths involved!

So what is Posterazor?

Posterazor is a free program available for download (Click Here) that was originally made so that you could make posters at home by uploading and image to the program, choosing the size by spreading it over (x) pages and then printing it.

More recently cosplayers have found a use for the program by using it to print their blueprints for props. It’s made extremely easy as the scale is just based on printing paper size. So you can lay paper out in your printing formation before printing to check your scale or just referencing the programs display.

It’s super easy!

Tutorial Time!

Things you will need:

•A PC or laptop that can run the program

•A Printer

•Printing paper (depending on how many times you need to run prints this may be more or less)

•A PDF program (I used PDF suite 2013)

•A blueprint or reference image you want scaled

•Craft knife or scissors for cutting out the printed design

•Sellotape(clear) and painters tape (any thick tape will do) for taping the cut pieces together again.

For this tutorial I’ll be making Ana’s Biotic Rifle from Overwatch. Thought of course this tutorial can be used for any blueprint!

Biggest thank you to Cosplay Amino user Beariore for sending me their blue print they made for their Ana cosplay!
I discussed with Beariore and they’re happy for me to give out the final blueprint that they altered from an Original Blueprint made by u/babomazer by adding line-work, scaling it and converting it to PDF.
Below is the blueprint unscaled.
Biotic Ana
If you would like the scaled PDF blueprint that I made/used for my cosplay then please contact me via direct message on either Instagram, Twitter or my Facebook page. You can find me @NiverasWings.
The PDF version I used is scaled to best suit my heigh, I’m 5’7. Another important thing to note is that its made for A4 paper as opposed to American letter paper, please keep that in mind before contacting me. I’m very busy at the moment and don’t have time to custom scale this blueprint on request.
Besides! If you read further down this blog post you’ll find the information on how to do that yourself! 🙂


The first thing I did was download the PDF files Beariore sent me.

I decided to run a test print at this stage to test the size of the original blue print.

Sox my cat for scale.

I decided it was too small and wasn’t thick enough at the base of the gun and some added length wouldn’t hurt.

(Main Tutorial)

I fired up old MS Paint and pasted all of the portions into it (in order so they lined up) and then scaled the page down (the white around the gun) so that it was as close to the gun as possible. This is so that when the image is used in Posterazor there won’t be too much white and the blueprint will fill the pages better.

Less waste, save the planet :earth_americas:
This was as small as I could make the image without cutting into the blueprint.
Biotic Ana
The little black lines around the outside are from the crop on paint. Don’t worry about those!
Next you want to open up Posterazor, there is a tutorial for using it on the site but I’m aiming to make it more clear.

Now you want to click ‘Input Image’ the file icon. Go through your files and find where you’ve saved your blueprint and open it into the program.

It’ll look like this once it’s uploaded.

Click next and it’ll go though printer formats. I personally don’t change anything on this page I’ve never needed to.

Click next again and it’ll come to image over lapping settings. Again I don’t change anything for this setting either as it makes lining your blueprint up once printed so much easier. There’s some trimming involved but I really do recommend leaving it this way.

Next is the easy part! Deciding on final size.

A grid format will appear over your image, using the width and height boxes you can change how many pages the image will be printed over.

Height refers to the amount of pages going up in the grid as indicated by the height arrow.

Width refers to the amount of pages going lengthways across the grid as indicated by the width arrow.

I was printing in portrait view but it will be similar using the landscape option too.

As the original print I tested with was only 4 pages in highly I thought 5 would be a good test. And as I wanted it to be wider I added another column (grid) of pages to increase the width.

Once you’re happy with the final size you can click next and then you’ll be brought to this page.

Click on the tick box ‘Launch PDF application after the poster is saved’.

And then save your scaled blueprint.

Your PDF application will then be launched with the blue print spread over the amount of pages you selected in the program.

I just made sure to check everything was okay and nothing was blurred or looked wrong.

Then you can hit print!

Before cutting anything out lay your pages out in order (ignore the overlap you just need to get an idea of size). Take a step back and check that this is the size you want. If it’s too big or small, go back into Posterazor and edit and repeat. If it the right size then celebrate and get rest to cut that thing out!

Here’s a size comparison of the original PDF size Beariore sent me (top) and then my newly rescaled blueprint (lower)

I really like the new size!

Cutting your blueprint out

I used a rotary cutting tool to cut my rifle out but ideally a craft knife would be better (I’m always loosing them). Or scissors.

Once everything is cut out you can start taping it back together. I used transparent tape for the printed side and then backed that with painters tape on the other side to give some extra support.

If you decided to go with the overlap option, trip the border edge (0.5cm) and then line up the over lap and tape it down. Because the overlap is printed it make it so much easier to line up.

Once you’ve finished taping you’re all done! And you’ll have a neat little blueprint ready for prop making!

Here is my finished Biotic Rifle.

And you’re all done! Get out there and make some blueprints and props! If you use this tutorial tell me what you’re making! Or what do you want to make? I’d love to hear!

I’ve been really awful at documenting (taking photos of) my progress for Ana recently so here’s a tutorial for Posterazor which I originally threw together for Cosplay Amino.
I have got another project on the go at the moment being the Deathbrand Armour from Skyrim (Dragonborn DLC) and patterned it all, cut the foam base for it and got to the worbla stage and… lost interest. I have a few other projects in mind at the moment of what I want to move onto next starting with my 1860’s ballgown which IS happening. But I’m conflicted as to what I want to make as a cosplay. I’m heading to Hertfordshire on Monday and will go to some fabric stores there so I’m hoping that out of the cosplays I have in my head one will have all of the required fabric there and I’ll make that one! Maybe? It’s probably the worst way to decided on something but I really don’t know or feel overly inspired by anything right now.
Red? Blue? or Yellow?
The red tribunal robes is something overly detailed I want to make and suffer though, blue is Sombra who’s a very fun character and with my blue obsession I have right now the cyber skin is perfect and then the Ancient One who easily makes my list of favourite characters of 2016.

I could easily change my mind in the next few days but a new fabric haul is on its way. I will make up of the weeks I haven’t posted! I recently got a new laptop so I’m still setting that up, why is the file system on mac so weird?

AND I’ll have a post/vent about my university applications and acceptances!

That’s all for now, thank you for reading

30 Day Cosplay Challenge in one post!

As its the start of 2016 I decided to do the 30 day cosplay challenge now and then again at the end of the year and then compare results! I hate spam and would hate to trash through my followers readers with this challenge everyday so I’ve decided to combined it all into one post!

Day 1 Your first cosplay.
My first cosplay would have been Celaena from the cover art from Throne of Glass. This was explained in an earlier post this one!  Because I never got photos from it and am far too embarrassed by it to recreate it I’m not sure it counts!
In 2014 however I did an Attack on Titan cosplay (bought) which I wore to Wellington Armageddon. The cosplay wasn’t character specific but I got called Sasha a few times so that was positive I guess! I also tried to be Mikasa once! (lets not go there any further) Here are the photos I still have!

Day 2  How many costumes have you done?
Celaena, Attack on Titan, Nightingale Armour, Dark Brotherhood Assassin, Dragonborn Dragon Scale Armour. So that’s 5 but I’m only really proud of the last three. I have completed many sewing projects however they weren’t costumes! I only really found a passion for making costumes in the last 10 months or so therefore its kinda expected I haven’t completed many costumes as most of the ones I have made myself are rather complicated. Simple isn’t satisfactory when it comes to costume making for me.
All three Photoshoot 2015

 Day 3 Your most recent cosplay
The Dragon Scale Armour from the Elder Scrolls Skyrim. My first armored project which I am very pleased with!

Day 4 Your cosplay communities, where do you go to talk about cosplay?
(WordPress) Here is the most obvious place, where I write full blogs about the costumes I construct and is also more photo heavy than my other social media. Along with tutorials too.
Twitter (@NiverasWings) Short tweets that usually express my frustration of success with what I’m working on. Photos are more filtered there and only the best ones are posted.
Cosplay Amino (@niveraswings) Medium length blogs depending on what I’m writing about, my tutorials tend to be longer there. Again photos are filtered there with only the best being posted.
I don’t have a Facebook page and don’t plan on getting one.

Day 5 Blatant self plug! Link us to your cosplay page
Twitter!  Cosplay Amino! Is an app but that is a link to the web version

Day 6 Your favourite cosplay (that you have done)
I have to go with the Dragon Scale Armour from Skyrim! It was a lot of fun to wear and surprisingly comfortable. It also lead to me getting my first shoot with a photographer at a convention! And it will always be the first cosplay I entered in a cosplay competition.

Day 7 The character you have cosplayed that is most similar to you (if none that you have cosplayed, then one that you will cosplay)
This question is hard as all of my costumes I have made are from RPG (Roll Play Games) such as Skyrim so you ‘pick your own path’ and such. A character that I will (possibly never) cosplay who is (kind of) like me would have to be Jenassa from Skyrim! She’s sassy and I absolutely adore he sassy comments in game. I honestly can’t think of anyone other character so she will do! Sorry Stu~

Day 8 Your cosplay plans for the rest of the year (if you have no more for this year, then do next year!)
My previous post  explains what order I will likely be making costumes for this year.
2016 plans

Day 9 The dream cosplay that might just happen
I have always wanted to make a costume for an original character/design I have. Of course being me I haven’t actually drawn this out yet so I can’t post a photo, I would try and explain but that could get really lengthy!

Day 10 The dream cosplay that will never happen
Uhhhh! I honestly can’t think of any! There are costumes I like a lot but I don’t want to make them. If I like something enough I will put it on my list and if I buy the materials it will be made. Maybe something will come to me in the next day or so and I’ll add it then!

Day 11 Something cosplay-related that you will never do (eg. crossplay, cosplay from a certain series
I don’t see myself ever crossplaying and or gender bending a character. It just doesn’t appeal to me. I will never cosplay from DC Comics. I don’t see myself ever doing a closet cosplay. I hate AU cosplays so I will never do one of those.

Day 12 Your cosplay idol(s)
Beebichu cosplay who inspired me to make my own Nightingale Armour! She’s lovely and we occasionally talk over cosplay amino!
Lighting Cosplay Just an amazing cosplayer who can throw together brilliantly detailed costumes in little time! Her costumes are just brilliant!
Kamui Cosplay is another brilliant cosplayer who’s work with worbla is fantastic, she’s contributed to the community so much with her books full of tutorials and tips to help other cosplayers along the way.
Yaya Han is also amazing with a lot of fabric based costumes and the detail that goes into them is just fantastic her tailoring skills are inspiring!

Day 13 Your cosplay specialty (ie. something that seems to apply to a large amount of your cosplays, it could be a specific series, or a common feature in their appearance, such as glasses)
Elder Scrolls cosplays, to date including my unfinished costumes I have made 4 from the series. I do want to make more but am limiting myself this year and only making costumes that will have a huge impact and show a range of skills in my portfolio.

Day 14 Your cosplay-making habits (eg. singing while working on cosplay)
Procrastinating?!?! I listen to music (usually from a playlist) and I often talk my self through what I am making out loud while working. When I’m alone of course!

Day 15 Your least favourite thing about cosplay
I don’t like the negativity in the community towards people of color (Everyone can cosplay dammit) I don’t like hate in general within the community.
Un-ironed costumes.

Day 16  Do you belong to any cosplay groups?  If so, what are they?
I haven’t cosplayed as apart of a group yet but I do attend cons with my friends so we just roam the halls in our totally unrelated costumes with each other all day and that’s fun enough for me!

Day 17 What events have you cosplayed to?
Armageddon Expo Wellington and Armageddon Expo Auckland.
New Zealand is very small so we only have one con per say but that con is held several times over the year in different cities.

Day 18 What is your best cosplay memory?
Attending the Auckland Armageddon Cosplay Competition in 2015. I didn’t win any prizes but I enjoyed myself so much and met so many amazing cosplayers and it was just really cool to hang out with them over the weekend!
Day 19 What is your worst cosplay memory?
Getting an image of mine reposed without credit and having that person semi impersonate me by not correcting over 40 comments from people complementing her on how ‘pretty she was’. That just disgusts me.
I’m still working on having the image removed.

Day 20 Have you won any cosplay awards?
No but I only entered my first competition late last year and am looking forward to entering Demongaze into the Wellington competition.

Day 21 Show us your best cosplay derp photo!
Is this derpy enough? I couldn’t find anything else!

Day 22 Have you worn cosplay in a regular situation? (eg. at school, to work)
I wore my Attack on Titan jacket to school once, surprisingly my fashion and textiles teacher loved the style of it and keep asking questions about it which of course I and the other anime lovers in the class found hilarious!

Day 23 Your most expensive cosplay
That I have made would be Dragon Scale Armour which cost just over $100 for materials ect. Aside from cosplay my Young Girl’s Loose Gown has to be the most expensive and I haven’t bought trims yet! The brocade is worth it though!

Day 24 Your most comfortable cosplay and most uncomfortable cosplay
Dragon Scale Armour wins this one again, yes I couldn’t sit down without taking the skirting off but most of the cosplayers I chatted to were standing anyway!
Dark Brotherhood Assassin looses this round.
I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, top sewing a non stretch fabric such as medium weight cotton on top of a stretch fabric such as spandex does not work!
Basically my movement was restricted because of the non stretch cotton on the spandex making it a little tight! To top it off I had two seams split into holes about 2 inches long on both my inner thigh seams. BUT I HAD AN INSTANT FOREBODING THAT THIS WOULD HAPPEN and luckily packed a pair of dark leggings in my con bag and put those on underneath my body suit which made the splits unnoticeable.
Always have a plan B.

Day 25 The cosplay you put the most effort into
Dragon Scale Armour again! About 6 months of work and of course having to work with new materials and learn at the same time!

Day 26 Any unfinished costumes?  Will you ever finish them?
Temple Priest robes from Skyrim (Dragonborn DLC)
Its highly unlike I will finish this cosplay as I now hate it. End of.
Lucina Fire Emblem Awakening
I will finish Lucina and I am planing to wear her to Wellington on the day I don’t have to wear Demongaze so she will be my comfortable cosplay!

Day 27 How many wigs do you own? Which is your favourite?
I have never worn a wig for cosplay ever. My hair has worked for all of them so far and will likely only need two wigs this year for Celaena and Lucina!

Day 28  Where do you work on your cosplays and where do you store them when they’re done?
I work in the dining room which has a large dining table for me to spread out my things on. I have taken over the whole room, its a good thing we have a smaller dining table in the kitchen! I ‘store’ some of my costumes on my wall if they are too long to hang in shallow closets. I do this by just putting a pin in the wall and hanging a coat hanging off it + costume. The costumes I can’t hang get put into storage boxes under my bed, folded properly of course.

Day 29 What is your favourite cosplay item? (eg. a pair of shoes, a wig)
My liquid leather bodysuit! It’s been used for quite a few of my cosplays now and will be used again for my Demongaze Armour and Lucina this year!
I bought it from River’s Edge Dancewear which has since closed down.

Day 30 Describe cosplay in three words.  No more, no less.
Practice. Perfect. Preform.

And that is my 30 Day Cosplay Challenge completed in a day!
I think it will be interesting to compare at the end of the year.