Young Girl’s Loose Gown Bodice Construction Part 2

Finally some top layer fabric action!!

After inserting the quilt batting into the bust of the bodice I placed the top layer fabric out (Top facing down) and then placed the base bodice over that with the denim layer touching the wrong side of the top fabric. I then sewed a basting stitch 1/4 of and inch away from the raw edge of the base layer. This stitch attaches the base layer to the top layer and makes the next steps much easier. I don’t have photos of this step but it explains itself in the next photos.

Next I turned the bottom edge up by about half and inch and clipped the curves where necessary.
Basting bottom edge 1I then ran a whip stitch along the bottom edge securing the fabric in place. These stitches are to secure the fabrics together but the stitch should not poke through to the top layer. This took me a while to master and I had to check every stitch I made to make sure it didn’t poke through the top layer. I pretty good at it now!
I’d also like to mention that I later whip stitched the clipped edges down too as I missed them when I initially whip stitched the bottom edge into place. Yes, they would have been covered with lining later but they were annoying me and I had time to spare!

Next I sewed the neck and arm facings onto the bodice with a straight stitch on the sewing machine about 1/4 of an inch from the edge.
facing sew on
Okay I can’t remember what this technique is called so I’ll just describe it for now and hopefully I remember it layer! Basically the facing is flexed back into the position the neck facing is in seen above and then pined into place like so. Then a line of stitching is sewn just off the seam that was sewn attaching the facing and the bodice. This line of stitching is suppose to sew over the clipped curves which makes turning over the facing that little bit easier. Because my clipped curves on my bodice were half a centimeter wide as best in places I sewed this line about 3mm off the seam. Confused ?  Me too, but it worked! So lets move along…
basting stitch insideI then sewed down the facing with a basting stitch, this process is repeated with the arm opening facings as well.
I also did a mock fit test of the bodice and I really like the shape and the silhouette it makes. Have I mentions how proud of myself I am with this project for a first time complex historical costume!
Mock fit test

Fast forward to today. Its currently school holidays and my textiles teacher was having an open class day where her year 12 students could come in and work on their (now overdue) projects. I decided to come in too so that I could cut out my skirt panels and sew them together if I had time. Luckily I had a lot of time and got both of those things done.
Once my skirt patterns were cut out I sewed them together with french seams. This was my first time sewing french seams and a few times I found myself puzzled having to sew the fabric together with the wrong sides together.But it all worked out really well and I had now issues what so ever! I also made the decision that I will sew a waist band onto the skirt which will be whip stitched onto the bodice, I’ll go into more detail with this in the next post.
After today I am feeling so much more confident with this project, I am certain that I will have this finished by the 16th of September along with the french hood and gown.

In other news I have ordered some buttons to embellish the neckline of the bodice. I wanted to replicate the embellishment design seen on Queen Jane Seymour’s neckline in the well-known portrait by Hans Hoblein.
The simple design looked easy enough to replicate but I wanted a little more added to the design. Luckily I found the most amazing woman (who I unfortunately can’t source as all the images I have found of her are re-post images) who made a recreation of the dress seen in the painting and she took some artistic liberty with the design and added some square pendants into the embellish mix which I think is a great look.
QJS recreation
So I hopped online to Etsy and found these Square Rose gold+Blue/White/Black Rhinestones which obviously aren’t 100% historically accurate but they look the part!
Button comparrison
They look pretty similar right! I opted for the black version and bought 24 of them in total. I estimated I would need 18 but decided over buying was better than under buying. I only just hope that is enough!
Including shipping the whole package cost me just over $30 NZD.


And that’s all for this post! I’ll make a start on the gown mock up these holidays as well as drawing up the patterns for the french hood. I have so many projects going at the moment that I can’t really say what my next post will be about, hopefully it will be a little more lengthy than this one!

Thank you for reading

One thought on “Young Girl’s Loose Gown Bodice Construction Part 2

  1. Pingback: Young Girl’s Loose Gown Skirt/Blouse Construction Part 4 (Final) | Niveraswings Costumes

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