Last week I finished the mock up for this costume. I attempted cartridge pleats to the best of my ability and I think it went okay..
Ignore the awful photos. I didn’t make the pleats as even as they should have been but honestly I was tired (10:30pm on a school night) and honestly over this project. The main thing is that it shows what I’m out to achieve with my actual garment.
The next day I took it to school where my textile teacher gave me the thumbs up and the heartbreaking process of unpicking the whole thing began. I think it took me two hours tops with vicious swipes from the quick un-pick which lead to me tearing the oh so cheap top pop poplin fabric on multiple occasions.
Once all the pieces were separated I ironed them. Now this was a mistake that I didn’t realize until today.. I used a fabric pen that’s ink disappears when exposed to high temperatures eg. an iron, see where this is going? All of my notch marks had ALMOST disappeared, luckily there were some vague lines left and I was able to re draw them but I have made a note to not make that mistake again!
I’ve also drawn up a boning guide for the bodice, closely following Angela Clayton’s kirtle tutorial.
I haven’t made a boning guide for the back piece yet, I will make that this weekend as I doubt I will be ready to start it until then (after finishing the bodice).
This week I started the bodice and I don’t have a lot to show for it but I’m just so happy to be starting it!
I started with a light/medium cotton layer of fabric which I drew my boning guide onto as well as the 1/4 inch seam allowance around the outside which can just be made out in the first image. This allowance it later trimmed
I then drew in the boning channels which are 1/4 inch wide with the exception of the center bone being 1 inch wide.
At this point I hadn’t trimmed the 1/4 inch seam allowance. Once that allowance is trimmed another allowance is put in along the bottom of the boning which again is 1/4 of an inch. This is to stop the boning so it will end there and not the very edge of the fabric. This is seen in the next full bodice photo (Pink line). At this point my Textiles teacher came over to me, commenting on how small my boning channels were. I told her they were 1/4 inch and I was told to do a test to see if the bones would lay properlu in the channels.
A close up of the boning and you can see the boning is surrounded by ‘tabs’ on either side. Which I assumed would curl inwards when inserted. Mistake? Yes. Its not a big deal however it does sit reasonably flat and it will be topped with the denim so any uneven sections will be disguised. I may even take the time to just trim the unnecessary ‘tabs’ off the boning to take away from the bulk.
I’d also just like to mention that the boning I’m using is in no way what I would have liked to be working with but honestly it’s so hard to source quality sewing supplies in NZ and I do not have the time to be ordering online now to change that so fingers crossed this all goes well!
Next I laid the cotton bodice over my heavy denim layer to it matched the same size of the cotton layer and then cut it out.
Just pined in this picture but you get the idea. After cutting this out I laid it over pattern paper and drew around it and added 1/4 of an inch to the outside edges. This was in preparation of me cutting out my satin fabric, I had forgotten to make a paper pattern at this point and had used my mock up bodice for the pattern so far!
And that’s all I have to update with today.
So I didn’t make my ‘Will post each week’ goal this time but I’m getting there. Lots of things are happening in the next few weeks, I have a convention in two weeks and will have a costume lineup posted this weekend for that. I’m also planing to do a review on a website I bought off recently which will start two new categories on my blog.
Lots of things are happening so there will be more frequent updates I promise!
Thank you for reading